Shypoke Rosé of Charbono 2019


Charbono is special. It is a dying varietal breed that is slowly finding new life.  An heirloom varietal originally hailing from the Savoie and an original favorite planting in the Napa Valley in its earliest days.  Shypoke has its own Charbono vineyards that have been on their Calistoga Ranch since 1904.  A singular expression of the varietal in rose form, it is fuller bodied and well balanced with pomegranate and darker red fruits such as cherry expressing themselves in the wine.  In a wine world filled with walls of pink, this rosé stands on its own in style as well as varietal expression.   

Shypoke, Rosé Charbono 2019 Calistoga

Full bottle 1,211 g. Whole-cluster Charbono (the Douce Noir from Savoie), hand-picked at 50% veraison, typically in mid August, leaving more even ripeness for the red Charbono, picked later. Gentle press to minimise skin maceration. Cold-settled overnight, racked off gross solids and fermented at 55 °F until dryness (4+ weeks). 92 cases produced.

Clear bottle. Pale orangey pink, gleaming. More stony than fruity, with a sour-plum aroma, herbal too. After a rather subdued nose, the palate is quite a surprise, a blast of zesty, rounded but bone-dry and slightly sour/mineral red-fruit flavours. Unusual and probably better as a food wine than an aperitif. Gently chewy texture even though it is not particularly tannic. Intense for a wine with modest alcohol. Not in the least flirtatious or pretty but interesting, and if I had had this blind, I would have thought there had been some skin contact. Long and freshly sour on the finish. (JH)




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