Haarmeyer Calaveras Zinfandel 2021

The Rorick Heritage Vineyard is one of the most fascinating sites in California. Originally surveyed during the Gold Rush — copies of that survey are still stored on the property today — the prospectors found no gold, but they did find something arguably more valuable: limestone outcroppings jutting up from the valley floor, surrounded by decomposed schist on the hillsides. The vineyard was first planted to Cabernet and Chardonnay, including own-rooted blocks of Wente-clone Chardonnay. About twenty years ago, the surrounding hillsides were planted with Zinfandel, Syrah, Viognier, and other sun-loving Rhône varieties.

Haarmeyer’s approach here is what he calls ‘partial-carbonic’: whole clusters are poured into open-top one-ton fermenters, the lid goes on, and nature takes its course. Early on the cap is worked by hand; once fermentation gets going, it’s foot-trodden. The wine is pressed at around 0 Brix into neutral 500L oval puncheons and remains sur lie until bottling — unfined and unfiltered — in March.

Vineyard: Rorick Heritage, Calaveras County | Farming: Own-rooted, limestone soils | Technique: Partial-carbonic, foot-trodden | Vintage: 2021